![]() #C 41 DEVELOPING FULL#I use an empty 2 litre ice cream container for my water bath for the SP445 and hold the tank upright using two glass jam jars full of heated water for a tight(ish) fit. If you start out at 38C and use a water bath, then your possible temperature drop will almost not exist. Temperature loss in the SP445 for that short time will be minimal. If you do one inversion every 15 seconds, then that is constant agitation in these tanks. I pretty much only do B&W these days, but shortly after getting my SP445 tank I did two lots of 4 sheets of 4x5 C41 negative, all good.Īs for agitation, you do need almost constant agitation with C41 as the developing time is the shortest in the business. From there you carry on with the normal C41 Process. I have used a stop bath after C41 developer for decades, not an issue. Once the developer gets to 38° (and the sink water is the same temperature) I start, keeping the tank in the sink water unless inverting to keep the temperature steady, the development time is short enough that there isn't any noticeable drop in the water temp whilst developing.I would suggest you consider using a stop bath after the developer, this will give you breathing time. The water I take out I keep in 1 litre plastic bottles to use for washing the film between bleach and fix and fix and stabiliser in an attempt to ensure that the temperature difference between the wash water and the chemicals is not too great. I usually have to remove some of the cooled water to replenish with new hot water one or two times before the chemical bottles come up to temp. Whilst doing this I load the film into the tank and then sit that in the bath as well, surrounded closely by the 4 chemical bottles so that it stays upright as it floats in the sink. ![]() The hot water out the tap is 50-55☌ so I fill the sink up with my chemical bottles (dev, bleach, fix & stabiliser) standing in it and let them warm up as the water in the sink cools down. Like yzfmikr, my temperature control is nothing more fancy than a large water bath - the kitchen sink. I'm not sure my colour perception is good enough to recognise any colour shifts from not having the temperature spot-on but the few in-date films I've done look fine to my eyes (the majority of the films I've developed have been well time expired (and not stored in a fridge/deep-freeze) so aren't a reliable guide!) I've only used the Rollei Digibase kit for C41 to date. Arista CS41 Liquid Developing Quart Kit for Processing C-41 Color Negative Film 5.0. #C 41 DEVELOPING ISO#Ilford HP-5 Plus Black and White Film, ISO 400, 35mm, 36 Exposures - 3 Pack. #C 41 DEVELOPING FREE#I also keep records of when/how much film I've developed and when those chemicals were mixed - this will give you a good idea how your chemicals are getting on. Chemical Type: C-41 Kit Chemical Compatibility: Made For Film In Stock Free Shipping Top Rated Gear. The only other tips I would give is be sure to work clean - getting Blix in Dev will ruin it (learnt that the hard way!) and the quality of the chemicals degrades over time - so I tend to only mix up new chemicals when I have a load of film to develop or I know I'll be shooting regularly for a few weeks - I tend to get around 20 rolls of 120 out of my chemicals before I start to see problems with it - but I guess everyones milage will vary with that. Don't forget you'll also need some other bits like a changing bag, film squeegee, a hanging solution, as well as somewhere to store the negs after (I'm assuming you have this and it's just the developing you need to add in!). I put a small weight on each film to keep it tight.Įverything packs back into the plastic container so easy to store. I tend to leave the negs to dry in a bathroom to keep dust down and usually leave them over night to dry. ![]() ![]() I use an app called 'Dev It' to help with timings, you can set the times for each stage in advance depending on your requirements and it can even leave a short gap between automatically starting the next timer - very useful when you have wet hands etc. I leave the chemicals to heat whilst loading the film (Patterson tanks) and then pre-wash the film, then dev, Blix - I wash the film using the heated water from the tank (usually it's cooled a bit by this point) before photo flo/cleaning agent. I use a large plastic container, fill it with water and use Sous Vide style heater to get the water to temp (38d). I use Tetenal C41 chemicals and have always been pretty happy with the results. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |